Smoothing

When I removed the clamps from gluing the bottom/back and sides together, I cut away the lip of wood in order to even up the edge.  I like the clean look it has--though I have seen a few pictures of nyckelharpas with a lip around both top and bottom edges.  I'll leave a lip around the top.

I rough-cut the "curves" of the corners.  I was nervous the whole time in case I accidently removed too much wood or cut a wrong angle.

 

 Before and after.

I really like seeing the patterns of the grain of the different pieces come together.

The edges have turned out smooth and not hideous at all!  I had to splurge and buy a replacement sander (the one "power tool" I'm using) since my random orbital fell apart, and was really too big for this project anyhow.  Instead, I chose a Craftsman detail sander.

I was so excited after this point, that I couldn't sleep that night.  My female mind kept running down my list of what I should work on next and how long would it take to attach the sound board?  Cut the keys?  Put the keybox together?  Shape the tailpiece?  Don't forget the pegboard strengthener . . . .

Fiddley Work

 I find myself working in spurts.  While I waited on the glue to dry, I cut a rough piece of what will become the tailpiece.  Whew!  Maple is tough stuff to cut by hand.

I left extra wood on the tail of the tailpiece.  It will be removed and shaped when I do a final measurement .

Sawing, sawing, sawing. 

This chunk of alder is being cut for blanks for keys.  The sides of the keybox will be cherry.  I'm using the alder for the keys (for now) because I had a chunk of alder and it seems to be workable.  Because the keybox won't be glued to the neck of the harpa, I feel I could always go back and make a new keybox.

Back it up

 Once the sides were cut, leaving the ends square . . . well . . . square-ish . . . I clamped it together.  I have a large piece of heavy glass measuring about 1' x 2'.  It provides the perfect surface for sanding accurately.  I used it to level or even-up the bottom edges of the body of the harpa.  It worked!  This created flush edges all around which made attaching the bottom or back much easier.

Sides glued up.

To help with attaching the bottom/back and the sound board, I made clamps.  These are simply threaded rods (you can buy them at the local hardware store--precut in 6-inch lengths; however, I found long lengths at the lumber yard and the guys were happy to cut them for me . . . let's just say I could have saved about $20 if I'd gone to the lumber yard first).

I cut 1" pieces from the largest diameter dowel rod I could find.  Some matching washers and suitable wing-nuts, and "washers" I cut from a sheet of cork, and there you have it!  Voila!  There's just enough wiggle room plus the cushion from the cork that they can clamp uneven/slightly angled edges.

Here are my clamps in action.  Working very well.  They did leave a little cork residue when I took them off, but some light sanding took care of that.

Smoothing

When I removed the clamps from gluing the bottom/back and sides together, I cut away the lip of wood in order to even up the edge. I like the clean look it has--though I have seen a few pictures of nyckelharpas with a lip around both top and bottom edges. I'll leave a lip around the top.

I rough-cut the "curves" of the corners. I was nervous the whole time in case I accidently removed too much wood or cut a wrong angle.

Before and After

I really like seeing the patterns of the grain of the different pieces come together.

The edges have turned out smooth and not hideous at all! I had to splurge and buy a replacement sander (the one "power tool" I'm using) since my random orbital fell apart, and was really too big for this project anyhow. Instead, I chose a Craftsman detail sander.

I was so excited after this point, that I couldn't sleep that night. My female mind kept running down my list of what I should work on next and how long would it take to attach the sound board? Cut the keys? Put the keybox together? Shape the tailpiece? Don't forget the pegboard strengthener . . . .

Moving Right Along

Despite my lack of initiave in posting once per week as originally planned, the project has continued as planned.  I continued to take pictures of my progress.

A detail of the peg board with the tuning gears resting in their (now straight) holes.  Everything fits and is flush.  The next step with this will be to add the "peg-board strengthener", a piece of wood which will be glued down the middle of the peg-board, through which the tuning pegs for the melody and drone strings will pass.  I'm still a little perplexed as to how I'll make tapered holes without spending money on a reamer (on the wishlist)--perhaps I'll use my rat-tail file?

This picture shows the sides, tail/butt end, and neck/peg-board.  One side is cut and the other ready for cutting.  I left the ends square to make clamping easier when I'm ready to glue it all together.  You can also see that I angled the bottom inward--you can't see that the top of the side is thinner than the bottom.

If it doesn't turn out quite perfect, I've decided to tell people it's an "ethnic instrument".  ha ha

Here is a shot of how I went about removing the waste wood.  I used my FatMax to cut across the grain, then went back in with my coping saw for the curvey ends until there was enough room to get the japanese saw in there.  After all that, I went back with my files and smoothed everything out.  I'll sand it next.

This is the back or bottom of the instrument.  Two pieces of redwood cedar I ripped from a larger board and book-matched together.  I got my jointer plane just in time to plane this down to a little less than 1/2 inch . . . I've saved all the shavings for mom and dad (I think they make wax fire-starters with them).  I was surprised that the whole piece is evenly thicknessed, but that credit goes to the tool.

An Excuse for Tools

A dear fellow gave me two wonderful books, one on handtools and the other specifically about planes.  Both books have come in handy as references for deciding which tools might be needed and which can go on a wishlist for the future, and also for care and maintenance of those I have already collected.

Not only am I collecting tools, but also stories from people who have become interested my project.  Everyone seems to have some experience with woodworking or a memory of a woodworker in the family or community.  The response I get most often is, " . . . I always wanted to try making something with wood . . ."

Here's a look through my (pizza box) tool chest:

the saws: japanese, Stanley fat max, and coping (not very well, I'm afraid)

The planes: a little block plane, a smoothing/all purpose plane, and a big jointer

This little guy is the most recent addition, a spokeshave, which I think is just what I needed to shape the tailpiece!  Many thanks to Jim for this treasure!

Other stuff: yes, that big green mat is actually for quilting (sorry mom!) as is the long "ruler".  They're intended for laying out quilt pieces but I've "re-purposed" them.
The red square is a piece of grippy stuff used for lining drawers and cabinets and works great for a project as "gripping" as this one--ha ha.
A chisel, pen and small ruler.  And my files for shaping and smoothing after I've made my cuts.

starting to look like something . . .

I began working on the peg head/ neck two weeks ago, as I also began working on shaping the soundboard at the same time.  With the gears resting in their holes, it's beginning to look like an instrument.  The tuning gears came with grommets? which I'm not certain where they go.  I'm going to assume that those pieces go on the "exit" side of the gear.  Since the strings will be pulling on the gear-pegs (not sure of the technical name) against the wood, it makes sense to me to insert those pieces to protect the wood and strengthen the gear and keep it from wandering.

While I visited a friend this weekend, we hit a sort of consignment shop where I found a couple treasures.  Some wood files in great shape, which will help me shape the curved parts of the harpa and get into difficult-to-reach places like the grooves where the tuning gears exit; and, a Sigg wind screen for my Svea backpacking stove!  Perhaps not exciting if you don't know what significance a Sigg is--but the fellow I bought it from knew that I knew I had found a treasure, and he was genuinely pleased to know, as he said, "it's going to a good home."

I should also say that I've officially moved on from "wood splinters" to more serious cuts.  I was adjusting the position of my drill bit (yes, on a hand powered drill) when my piece of wood shifted and caused the bit to punch a hole in my finger.  Fingers bleed . . . a lot.  Silly, I know, but I am the girl who cut her hand on a toothpaste tube . . . yes.  A toothpaste tube. 

At any rate, I still wasn't happy with the position of the hole.  So filled it in with some sawdust mixed with glue and re-drilled the hole later.

I worked with a chisel to shape and pare down the grooves I had rough-cut with my coping saw.  Made a stupid "I know better-than-that" mistake when I got excited and cut my second groove before drilling my holes, so I had tear-out when I began drilling the second line.  A little work with the chisel fixed that and sand paper will do the rest.

The sound board has an amazing hum to it when I tap it.  I'm still a little doubtful about leaving it 1/4 inch thick; but, that's what Jan Ling's measurements describe, and this is a trial run so I'll go with it.