I still need to do some shaping on the tailpiece. Then, the peg holes need to be drilled. After that, I can apply a finish to protect the wood--especially the soundboard and back which are made from the softer redwood.
I've whittled away quite a lot on the tailpiece . . . and my poor fingers. The short story is to always pay attention to what you're doing, and if you're fatigued it might be a good idea to call it a day. After using a chisel for the better part of the day, I took a half-inch slice to the thumb. It has healed better than the blistered spot just above the cut, and the various other nicks and bruises.
I dug around the internet to learn what I could about sound holes. I only followed two basic things: 1) the notches should line up with the feet of the bridge, and 2) the top holes should be just to the outside of the feet of the bridge. I decided to wing it on the rest. The masking tape helped to prevent tear-out. I cleaned the holes up with a little sand paper.
Again, I really had no clue about the bass bar; so, there it is. The rule I found about bass bars said the bar should run underneath the [left] foot of the bridge. I assumed the highest point should be near the notches of the f-holes, then tapers on both ends. It's about 1/2 inch (or slightly more) thick. I used this piece because it sounded musical when I tapped all up and down it. Highly scientific.
At this point I got carried away and forgot to add a label to the inside of the soundbox. Oh well. I think I'll remember it's mine. If I ever become a world-famous nyckelharpa builder, this one will be special without a label . . . like a piece of McCoy pottery.
These little clamps are working so well!
And here it is! A little more fitting to do on the tailpiece, peg holes to be drilled, and the keybox underway!